Plunking
How to plunk for salmon and steelhead from the bank or an anchored boat: the slider rig, Spin-N-Glos and plugs, picking a spot and waiting out the bite.
Plunking is the patient angler's way to catch salmon and steelhead. You cast a weighted rig into a river, let the weight settle on the bottom and put the rod in a holder. A lure such as a Spin-N-Glo or a bait-wrapped plug works in the current while fish migrate past it. Then you wait for the rod to bend. It's simple, social and very effective on big, high rivers where other methods struggle.
What It Is and When It Beats Other Methods
A plunking rig anchors in one place. The current spins or wobbles the lure on a leader downstream of the weight. Fish moving upstream follow the easiest path along the bank. When they meet your lure, they strike. Plunking can be done from shore or from an anchored boat.
Plunking beats other methods when:
- Rivers are high and colored. Fish travel close to the bank, and moving methods like drift fishing become difficult.
- You're fishing a migration route. A plunk rig sits in the path fish must take.
- You want a relaxed day. Families and groups often plunk together on a beach.
- You can't reach the water with other gear. Heavy weights hold where lighter rigs wash out.
It's weaker in low, clear water, when fish hold in pools rather than move, or when you need to cover water. When fish are holding rather than moving, try Drift Fishing, Side Drifting, Float Fishing or Pulling Plugs.
Target Species and Where in Washington
- Spring Chinook: Plunking is a classic way to catch springers on the lower Columbia and its tributaries.
- Steelhead: Winter and summer steelhead on many rivers.
- Fall Chinook and coho: On larger rivers.
- Sturgeon and shad: Bank plunking with bait is also a sturgeon and shad method (see Sturgeon and Shad).
Where plunking is common in Washington:
- Lower Columbia River: Beaches and banks below Bonneville. See Buoy 10 Salmon.
- Cowlitz River and other lower Columbia tributaries.
- Puget Sound rivers: See Skagit and Snohomish Salmon and Steelhead.
- Olympic Peninsula rivers: See Olympic Peninsula Winter Steelhead.
See Salmon and Steelhead. Which rivers and stretches are open, and for which fish, changes often. Check WDFW rules.
Seasons and Conditions
Best Times, Not Regulations. Spring Chinook plunking on the lower Columbia often runs from about March into April. Winter steelhead plunking runs through the winter, and fall salmon from late summer into fall.
- Flow: High water pushes fish to the bank, which favors plunkers. A rising river, or one dropping after a rise, can be best.
- Color: Some color is fine. Bright lures and scent help in dirty water.
- Tide: On the lower Columbia and tidewater, an outgoing tide gives the current needed to work lures. Fish often move on the incoming tide, too.
- Temperature: Cold water slows fish. Expect slow bites in the coldest weeks.
- Where to check: USGS river gauges for flow; NOAA tide predictions for tidewater.
Rods, Reels, Line and Leader
| Gear | Typical setup | Range | Why |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rod | 10'–12' heavy bank rod | 8½'–12'; heavy to extra-heavy | Long rods cast heavy weight far and keep line off the bank. From a boat, shorter rods work. |
| Reel | Large level-wind or spinning reel | Must hold 150+ yd of heavy line | Big fish and heavy weights. |
| Main line | 40–60 lb braid or mono | 25–65 lb | Strong enough to haul heavy lead and fight big fish in current. |
| Leader | 3–5 ft, 20–30 lb (Spin-N-Glo) | 2–6 ft; 15–60 lb | Kwikfish leaders often 4–6 ft of 40–60 lb. |
| Dropper | 18–30 in of 10–15 lb | Lighter than the main line | Breaks first on a snag, so you keep the lure and main line. |
| Weight | Pyramid weight, 2–6 oz | 1–12 oz | Enough to hold in current. |
| Rod holder | Sand spike or bank holder | — | Holds the rod and lets it bend when a fish strikes. |
| Bell | Clip-on bell | — | Signals a bite. |
Terminal Tackle and Rigging, Step by Step
Spin-N-Glo rig
- Slide on the slider. Thread the main line through a sinker slider (or a spreader bar). Add a bead or two.
- Tie a swivel. Tie the main line to a barrel swivel.
- Tie the leader. Tie 3 to 5 feet of leader to the other side.
- Add the lure. Slide on a Spin-N-Glo (or winged bobber), then a bead, and snell a hook, usually 1/0 to 4/0.
- Add bait. Many plunkers add a sand shrimp, cured roe or a small piece of yarn.
- Attach the weight. Clip an 18 to 30 inch dropper of lighter line to the slider and add a pyramid weight.
Kwikfish rig (WDFW's approach)
- Slider and beads. Thread the main line through a swivel or slider, add 4 to 6 beads, then tie to a swivel.
- Leader. Tie 4 to 6 feet of 40 to 60 lb mono to the swivel and to the Kwikfish snap.
- Dropper and weight. Tie 18 to 30 inches of 15 lb line to the slider and add 1 to 8 ounces of lead.
- Plug size. Most use K13 to K16. Go larger in slow water and smaller in fast water.
- Bait wrap. Wrap the plug's belly with a fillet of sardine or other fish.
- Tune the plug. If it dives left, turn the screw eye clockwise. If it dives right, turn it counterclockwise.
Plunking spoons
On smaller rivers or slower water, thin-bladed spoons can be plunked on lighter rods, with or without a weight and dropper. WDFW suggests setting them in 4 to 5 feet of water just upstream of a riffle, on lighter line around 15 lb.
Lures, Bait and Scent by Flow
The lure has to work in the current at your spot. Match it to the flow:
| Flow at your spot | Lure choice | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Fast | Smaller Spin-N-Glo, smaller Kwikfish (K13–K14) | Small lures spin or wobble without blowing out or rolling. |
| Moderate | Mid-size Spin-N-Glo, K14–K15 | The most common middle ground. |
| Slow | Larger Spin-N-Glo, larger Kwikfish (K15–K16) | Bigger lures need less current to work and show up better. |
| Very slow or slack | Bait alone, or a float rig | Lures stop working; scent does the work. |
Color. In dirty water, many plunkers start with bright colors such as chartreuse, orange, pink or red, or two-tone patterns. In clearer water, try more natural or darker colors and smaller sizes. There's no single best color; carry a few and rotate them.
Bait. Sand shrimp, cured salmon eggs and sardine fillets are the classics. Bait adds scent, which matters when fish can't see far. Change it every 20 to 30 minutes, or whenever it looks washed out. Many plunkers add a scent oil or gel to the lure or bait wrap.
Yarn. A small piece of yarn on the hook can add color and hold scent.
Technique, Step by Step
- Pick the spot. See the spot list below.
- Set the rod holder. Push the holder firmly into the sand or gravel so a big fish can't pull it over.
- Cast. Cast slightly upstream or straight out, depending on the current, and let the weight settle.
- Tighten. Reel up slack until the rod tip bends slightly.
- Set the rod. Put it in the holder, clip on the bell and set the drag.
- Check the lure. The rod tip should pulse steadily from the lure working. If it stops, check for weeds or a snag.
- Wait. Check bait every 20 to 30 minutes.
Choosing a spot
- Large rivers: Set up on an inside curve, where fish moving up that side are pushed around the point.
- Small rivers: Fish tailouts just upstream of riffles, where fish rest after climbing.
- Low flows: Stay near the main current, where it starts to slow.
- High flows: Work the soft edges, where the current isn't too fast.
- Cover: Fish look for deep water, logs, boulders or broken water to feel safe.
Multiple rods and spreaders
On big rivers, some plunkers fish two or three leaders off a spreader bar, spaced about 3 feet apart. How many rods, lines and hooks you can fish is a rule; check before you rig.
The Bite, Hook Set, Fight and Landing
Plunking bites vary. A Kwikfish bite is often a hard, steady pull. A Spin-N-Glo bite might be taps followed by a pull.
Let it load. WDFW's Kwikfish advice is to leave the rod in the holder and let the fish pull the rod tip down to the water at least three times before you pick it up. Many plunkers do the same with Spin-N-Glos.
Set firmly. Grab the rod, reel quickly to take up slack and sweep the rod back hard. On the bank, some anglers walk back up the beach to take up slack.
The fight. Keep the rod high and steady pressure on. Don't let slack form.
Landing. Have a partner net the fish or slide it onto a gentle beach. Don't drop the rod and run to the fish, because the fish will thrash and get off when tension drops.
Handling and Release
- If you plan to release a fish, keep it in the water.
- Rules on keeping wild and hatchery fish vary by river. Check which fish may be kept.
- Use a soft net and handle fish gently.
- Hold the fish upright facing into the current until it swims off.
Common Mistakes and Fixes
| Mistake | What you'll notice | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Weight too light | Rig rolls downstream into the bank | Add weight until it holds. |
| Weight too heavy | Lure snagged, hard to cast | Use the least weight that holds. |
| Lure not working | Rod tip doesn't pulse | Clear weeds; tune plugs. |
| Setting too early | Missed fish | Let the rod load. |
| Wrong spot | Long waits with no bites | Fish inside curves, tailouts and soft edges. |
| Loose holder | Rod pulled into the river | Seat the holder firmly. |
| Main line too light | Break-offs on snags | Use a lighter dropper so the weight breaks first. |
Pro Tips From Guides
- Fresh bait wins. Change bait often.
- Tune your plug. A plug that doesn't track straight won't catch fish.
- Use scent. Scents and oils help in dirty water.
- Go long. Long rods keep line off the bank and help casting.
- Bring spare rigs. Pretied leaders get you back out fast after a snag.
- Watch the tip. A tip that stops pulsing means a fouled lure.
- Find the lane. Watch where other plunkers catch fish.
When It's Slow
- Bait. Rebait or change bait.
- Color. Change the Spin-N-Glo color.
- Distance. Cast closer or farther.
- Spot. Move.
- Time. Fish the tide change or a change in flow.
Safety
- Watch for rising water and floating logs.
- Banks can be slick and steep.
- Weights are heavy; cast with care and check behind you.
- Don't wade in high water.
- Watch for ship wakes on the Columbia, which can surge up the beach and pull gear and children into the river.
- Keep hooks and weights away from kids and dogs on crowded beaches.
- Dress for cold, wet days; plunking means hours of sitting still.
WDFW Rules to Check
River rules in Washington vary by stretch and can change quickly. Before every trip, check the current WDFW sport fishing rules and emergency rules. For plunking, check these in particular:
- Whether the river and stretch are open, and for which species
- Which fish may be kept, including wild and hatchery rules
- The number of rods, lines and hooks allowed
- Barbless hooks and bait rules
- Catch record card requirements
- Closed areas, such as near dams and hatcheries
- Night fishing rules
A Guided Day and What to Ask
Plunking guides often run bank camps or anchored boat trips. The guide supplies rods, rigs, bait and holders. You'll spend a day waiting for bites, often in a group.
Questions worth asking:
- Do we fish from the bank or from an anchored boat?
- What species and runs are we targeting?
- What's provided: rods, bait and holders?
- What's the policy if the river blows out?
- How many rods can each person fish?
- What are typical catch rates at this time of year?
Ask your guide for their WDFW guide license number before you book.
Glossary
- Plunking
- Fishing a stationary, weighted rig in current.
- Slider
- A sliding clip that holds the weight on the main line.
- Spreader bar
- A wire bar that holds weight and leader apart.
- Dropper
- A short line that holds the weight.
- Spin-N-Glo
- A floating, winged lure that spins in current.
- Kwikfish
- A wobbling plug.
- Pyramid weight
- A pyramid-shaped sinker that holds the bottom.
- Tailout
- The shallow end of a pool, above a riffle.
Guides Who Specialize in This