Swung Flies

How to swing flies for steelhead on a Spey rod: matching head and sink tip, choosing the cast, mending for a slow swing and covering a run.

Swinging flies gives you a clear job: cast across and downstream, let the current carry the fly across the river and work your way through a run. The sequence is cast, swing, hang, step and repeat. A swing is the fly's path as current carries it across the river. A run is a stretch of fairly steady current.

Most of the fishing happens on foot. A boat can help you reach a run, but the swing itself is mostly a wading method. You learn to read the current, control the line and stay calm when a steelhead pulls.

It comes down to depth, speed and coverage. Fly choice matters least. How many fish are in the river, water conditions, proven runs and fishing well all come first. You don't need to cast across the river. Start close, fish the water you can control and build from there.

What It Is and When It Beats Other Methods

A swung fly travels across the current under line tension. Cast down and across, make a small mend and keep the rod tip near the water while you wait for the pull. The current supplies the movement. Your job is to keep that movement useful.

A Spey rod is a long, two-handed rod. Its casts load against line touching the water. A switch rod is a shorter rod built to cast with one hand or two. Spey rods give you more time fishing, more control in wind, room for bigger flies and less fatigue. Single-hand rods suit small rivers.

Why It Works

A steelhead may follow a fly, nip at it and then take as it turns back toward its holding place. That is why a steady swing and a patient response matter. Jerking the fly away at the first touch can end the chance before the fish takes hold.

Aim for a fly moving at the same speed as the water or slower. Colder water calls for a slower swing. A broadside presentation suits slow, even current. In fast water, the same presentation can race across the river.

Depth and speed work together. Line tension makes the fly rise, so a heavier tip alone doesn't solve every depth problem. A fly pulled hard across fast current can lift above the water you mean to fish. Adjust the cast angle and line before adding more weight.

Swinging is a useful choice when:

• You can cover a run with control. Start short, lengthen your casts and work downstream through the water.
• The current has a steady walking pace. Look for broken water and shelter around underwater obstructions.
• Fish may move to the fly. Summer steelhead in warmer, clearer water may travel farther to take than winter fish in very cold water.
• Wind or big flies make casting hard. Spey tackle gives more control in wind and casts bigger flies.

Floating lines catch fewer fish in cold or high, dirty water. Small pockets can leave little room for a useful swing. When the fly can't swim through a holding spot at a controlled speed, try another method.

Some waters have selective gear or fly-fishing-only rules. Selective gear is a WDFW term for gear limits on some waters; read its definition in the rules. Check WDFW for the rules on your water.

Skagit or Scandi: Which Head When

A Skagit head is a short, heavy casting section designed to carry sink tips and heavier flies. A sink tip is a sinking section attached ahead of the head. A Scandi head is a longer, lighter casting section suited to lighter flies and shallower water.

Choose the job before choosing the head:

• Fast, deep water: compact Skagit heads of 18–24 ft with a short, fast-sinking tip.
• Lighter flies and shallower water: Scandi heads.
• Broad, shallow rivers: longer-belly lines.
• Small rivers: a single-hand rod, which can also cast a Skagit line.

Skagit casting uses a sustained anchor. That means part of the line stays on the water while the cast develops, helping load the rod. The anchor is the line touching the water before the forward cast. The D-loop is the curved line formed behind the rod during that setup.

Don't choose by rod weight or the name on a head alone. Match the head to the rod maker's grain window, the published range of casting weights the rod handles. A grain is a small unit of line weight. The head, tip and fly still need to work together as a complete casting load.

Brushing Up: A broadside fly isn't the goal in every current. In swift water, a steeper downstream angle or upstream line adjustment can produce a slower, tail-first swing.

Target Species and Where in Washington

Winter and summer steelhead are this page's targets. Washington has both runs, with most summer runs east of the Cascades and some in western rivers. Winter runs spawn closer to the ocean. See Steelhead for species background.

Steelhead can spawn more than once. Plan your landing and release before you fish. Check WDFW for the rules on keeping or releasing steelhead on your river.

Where It Works in Washington

• Skagit and Sauk: WDFW calls the Skagit/Sauk the birthplace of many steelhead fishing techniques.
• Olympic Peninsula: The Hoh, Sol Duc, Bogachiel, Calawah and Queets are within WDFW's coastal steelhead area.
• Other rivers: a river with steelhead isn't always open to fishing. Check WDFW first.

On the Skagit and Sauk, WDFW says the bank, small rafts, drift boats and jet sleds can all be successful. On this page a boat is a ride to the run. The swinging happens on foot.

Read Skagit and Snohomish Salmon and Steelhead and Olympic Peninsula Winter Steelhead for broader trip context.

River by River

Each block gives a river's USGS gauges and what changing water means for a swing. It doesn't tell you a stretch is open, a crossing is safe or a bank is public.

A hydrograph is a chart of river measurements over time. Read the direction of change before studying a single reading. A rising line, a peak and a falling line describe different stages of a river's response. Temperature trends also matter: cooling after an overnight drop can slow fish, while warming after a cold spell can increase activity.

This page gives no flow numbers. Compare the gauge trend with the current, color and footing you find. Keep notes so you learn how readings match the runs you fish.

Skagit and Sauk

WDFW calls the Skagit Basin the birthplace of several fishing techniques, including Skagit-style two-handed casting and heavy Skagit lines. These developed for a wide, fast-moving river. When it's open, the Skagit and Sauk are a winter-spring fishery. Seasons on wild steelhead change from year to year.

Use these gauges:

• USGS 12194000, Skagit River near Concrete — flow.
• USGS 12200500, Skagit River near Mount Vernon — flow and water temperature.
• USGS 12189500, Sauk River near Sauk — flow and water temperature.

Rising: Check your footing and your way back. If the current through your swing becomes faster, use a steeper downstream cast or an upstream mend to reduce speed. A mend is a deliberate repositioning of line on the water. More depth is useful only while you can control the cast and presentation.

Peaking: A flattening hydrograph doesn't tell you whether a run is safe or fishable. Inspect the river. In heavy current, remove a downstream belly rather than letting it pull the fly across too fast. A belly is a curve in the line caused by current.

Dropping: Recheck the run rather than repeating the same cast length and tip. The deep gut, or main holding trough, can sit lower in a pool at high water and higher at low water. Adjust to the current you find, not the position that worked on a previous visit.

Find bank access through WDFW Water Access Sites. See Skagit and Snohomish Salmon and Steelhead for more on these rivers.

Rules change by river and in season. Check the current WDFW sport fishing regulations and emergency rules before every trip.

Olympic Peninsula

The river focus here is the Hoh, Sol Duc, Bogachiel, Calawah and Queets. WDFW includes these rivers in its coastal steelhead area.

Use these gauges:

• USGS 12041200, Hoh River at US 101 near Forks — flow.
• USGS 12042800, Bogachiel River near Forks — flow and water temperature.
• USGS 12043000, Calawah River near Forks — flow and water temperature.
• USGS 12040500, Queets River near Clearwater — flow.

The Sol Duc had no live USGS gauge at our last check. Don't use another river's reading for it.

Rising: Watch the bank, floating debris and your exit. High or dirty water makes a floating-line approach less effective, so reconsider both the presentation and whether to fish. A tiny, sparse fly is a poor starting choice in high, dirty water.

Peaking: Read the actual swing lane. A heavy fly in slow, shallow water can be as unsuitable as a light presentation that never reaches deeper water. Avoid adding weight simply because the gauge has risen. Check current speed, depth and the fly's path together.

Dropping: Shorten or lighten the setup as the water you are fishing becomes shallower. Shallow boulder water may call for a shorter sinking section. Keep the fly swimming above the bottom rather than dragging through the rocks.

Find access through WDFW Water Access Sites. If a boat will take you to the run, check WDFW's rules on fishing from a floating device for that stretch. Read Olympic Peninsula Winter Steelhead for broader planning.

Rules change by river and in season. Check the current WDFW sport fishing regulations and emergency rules before every trip.

Seasons and Conditions

Best Times, Not Regulations. The Skagit and Sauk are a winter-spring fishery when open. Washington has winter and summer steelhead runs. Timing differs by river and run, so this page gives no months.

Let conditions shape the presentation:

• Temperature: Follow the trend. An overnight drop can leave fish less active; warming after a cold spell can energize them.
• Flow: Faster current calls for closer attention to cast angle, line belly and swing speed.
• Clarity: Floating-line approaches lose effectiveness in cold or high, dirty water.
• Fly profile: Avoid tiny, sparse flies in high, dirty water and very heavy flies in slow, shallow water.

Use USGS Washington Water Data for observations and NOAA's Northwest River Forecast Center for rain-driven river forecasts. Check again before leaving and compare the reports with the river on arrival.

Reading the Water: Temperature, Flow and Clarity

The temperature trend can matter more than the number on a gauge. Fish may become less active after a sudden cooling. After a cold spell, rising temperature can make a higher presentation worth trying.

Cold water calls for a low, slow fly. In warmer water, you can fish higher. That doesn't mean racing the fly across the river. Keep the swing controlled and change depth separately from speed.

Summer steelhead in warmer, clearer water may move far to take a fly. That response is rare in winter or very cold water. The practical difference is how much water the fish may cover for you. In cold conditions, spend more care getting the fly through the holding place.

Some anglers use floating lines through normal conditions and lose little effectiveness. They catch fewer fish in cold or high, dirty water. A floating setup is an option with limits, rather than a shortcut around reading the river.

The Mount Vernon, Sauk, Bogachiel and Calawah gauges also report water temperature, in °C.

Rods, Reels, Line and Leader

Build a balanced system before adding specialist pieces. A 12- or 13-ft Spey rod suits Skagit or Scandi lines. On small rivers a 9-ft 8-weight single-hand rod works.

Backing is reserve line stored beneath the casting system on the reel. Running line is the thin line behind the head that shoots through the rod guides. The leader is the line between the sink tip or head and the fly.

Drag is the reel mechanism that releases line under pressure. Choose a reel with a smooth drag and room for the whole line system plus backing.

Fluorocarbon is leader material that is harder for fish to see. Mono is monofilament, a single strand of fishing line. Whichever you use, the leader is the same test as the line above it or lighter.

Matching the Head and Running Line

The RIO Elite Skagit Max Launch is a floating head. It comes in 400–750 grains and lengths of 23–25 ft. Pick the size that fits your rod.

The maker lists 475 and 500 grains as 7-weight options. Check the rod's grain window before choosing between them. Don't carry forward a head weight simply because another rod has the same line-weight label.

RIO SlickShooter is a thin, hard nylon running line. The maker's pairings are:

These pairings help match the shooting line to the head. They don't replace the rod's own head-weight guidance.

Matching Tips to Heads

T-11 is tungsten sink-tip material weighing 11 grains per foot. A 10-ft piece weighs about 110 grains. The T number describes weight per foot, not the length of the sinking section.

A MOW tip is a ready-made tip with a selected mix of floating and sinking line. The RIO Skagit MOW Tips product chart pairs tip families with head weights.

The chart overlaps at some head weights. Use it with your rod's grain window and the specific tip system, rather than treating the labels as universal.

Each family includes a 10-ft floating version. Mixed versions are 7.5 ft floating with 2.5 ft sinking, an even split or 2.5 ft floating with 7.5 ft sinking. Fully sinking versions are 10 ft and 12.5 ft, and the maker also lists 15 ft versions. These choices let you change the amount of sinking line without changing the entire head.

RIO Skagit iMOW Tips use an intermediate rear section joined to a fast-sinking tip. Intermediate line sinks slowly instead of floating. The product offers Light T-8, Medium T-11 and Heavy T-14 versions for depth control with larger flies.

Starter Kit vs Upgrade Path

Starter Kit

• A 12- or 13-ft Spey rod (any brand) and a reel with backing.
• RIO Elite Skagit Max Launch matched to the rod's grain window. Its looped design lets you connect the running line and tip.
• RIO SlickShooter matched to the head's grains.
• RIO Skagit MOW Tips in the family suited to the head.
• About 3–4 ft of 10 lb Seaguar STS Trout & Steelhead fluorocarbon for the sink-tip leader. Keep it no stronger than the line above it.
• A few flies in different weights and sizes, plus a snug wading belt and a wading staff.
• A local fly shop for casting help and for matching the parts.

Upgrade Path

• Add different sinking lengths within the matching MOW family before buying a heavier head.
• Consider RIO Skagit iMOW Tips when an intermediate rear section suits the depth-control problem.
• Add a floating tip. It's easier to control and snags less, but the fly rises out of the strike zone sooner.

Terminal Tackle and Rigging, Step by Step

Lay out the system from reel to fly. Each connection should have a clear job. Check the assembled line before fishing so a twisted loop or worn leader doesn't interrupt the run.

How It Works, Step by Step

1. Load the reel. Start with backing, then connect the running line using the line and reel makers' directions.
2. Connect the head. Join the head's rear loop to the running line's front loop.
3. Connect the tip. Join the tip to the front of the head with a loop-to-loop connection.
4. Add the leader. On the sink-tip setup, use about 3–4 ft of 10 lb leader. Keep the leader's test at or below the line above it.
5. Attach the fly. Use a sound connection suited to the leader and fly. For knot instruction, see Drift Fishing.
6. Inspect the hook and line. Sharpen the hook and check for damage. Check WDFW for hook and barb rules on your water.

Choosing the Tip and Fly Together

Start with the head match, then choose sinking length for the water. A 10-ft tip fits almost everywhere. Shallow water, big boulders or small lies can call for 5 ft of T-14.

Let the tip and fly work together. A very heavy fly is a poor choice in slow, shallow water. A fly for a deep trench may be sparsely dressed and weighted near the hook so it sinks faster.

A big fly isn't always a heavy one, so check its weight before you fish it.

Tune the drift so the fly swims about 1–2 ft above the bottom. If it snags, shorten the drift before trying a lighter fly. The aim is near the bottom, never dragging. Constant contact is a problem to fix.

Keeping the Leader Matched

A short leader keeps the fly near the tip's depth. Lengthen it for deep trench lies. If you change leader material, keep the same test as the line above it or go lighter.

With a floating tip, use a longer leader of 12–14 ft. It's easier to control and snags less, but the fly rises out of the strike zone sooner. Its test follows the same rule.

Brushing Up: Change sinking length before assuming the whole tip family is wrong. A short sinking section can solve a shallow-water problem while preserving a suitable head match.

By Species

The basic sequence stays the same for both runs. What changes is the likely depth, speed and distance a fish may move to meet the fly.

Winter Steelhead

Winter steelhead favor fast water in mainstems and larger tributaries. That doesn't mean swinging the fly quickly. Cold conditions call for a deeper, slower presentation.

Use a Skagit head and a matched tip when heavier flies and deeper water call for them. Use a sink-tip leader of about 3–4 ft of 10 lb, the same test as the line above it or lighter.

Look for a controlled path through specific holding water. Fish may use the front of large rocks, inside seams at the head of a run and narrow trenches above a tailout. A tailout is the shallowing end of a pool above the next riffle. A riffle is shallow, moving water with a broken surface.

The winter adjustment is patience with presentation. Slow the fly through the lie without letting it hang on the bottom. Don't replace careful coverage with a heavier fly on every cast.

Summer Steelhead

Most Washington summer runs are east of the Cascades, with some in western rivers. In warmer, clearer water, a summer steelhead may move farther to a fly.

Lighter flies and shallower presentations can suit a Scandi head. Floating lines also work in normal conditions, though they lose effectiveness in cold or high, dirty water.

With a floating tip, the leader is 12–14 ft. Its test is the same as the line above it or lighter. The longer leader is part of that floating approach, not a replacement for the short sink-tip leader in deep winter water.

Fish higher when conditions support it, but keep reading the current. Warmer water after a cold spell can change fish activity; an overnight drop can point you back toward a low, slow swing.

Technique, Step by Step

How It Works, Step by Step

1. Start at the top of the run with short casts. Fish nearby water before wading deeper. Check your footing, wind and exit before extending line.
2. Build your reach gradually. Add the same amount of line with each cast until you reach a distance you can turn over repeatedly or the run calls for. Keep the distance within your control.
3. Choose a safe cast. Put the anchor and fly on the downwind side of your body. The cast names below describe ways to achieve that position.
4. Cast down and across. Choose the angle for the speed you need. A steeper downstream angle slows the fly.
5. Adjust the line as needed. An upstream mend slows the swing. Leave a swing alone if it is neither racing nor stalling.
6. Control depth and speed with the rod. Hold line clear of faster nearby current. Lowering the rod as the fly enters a lie can slow the swing.
7. Fish the hang-down. This is the end of the swing, with the fly directly downstream. Let the fly finish and hang before starting again.
8. Step and repeat. Move about 3–5 ft downstream between casts. Use smaller moves through the best part of a run and larger moves through poorer water.

Choosing the Cast for the Wind

Choose the anchor side before choosing the cast name. The anchor and fly belong downwind so the wind carries them away from your body.

With an upstream wind, a Single Spey or Snap T puts the anchor upstream.

With a downstream wind, a Double Spey or Snake Roll puts the anchor downstream.

Fly Fishers International teaches this rule in its single-hand Spey guide. It holds on either bank.

An upstream anchor moves in running water, so avoid a long pause before the sweep. When learning, stand no deeper than mid-calf to knee. Deeper water makes the cast harder. Move to a simpler position before trying to rescue a poor setup with more force.

Mending and Swing Speed

A mend changes how current pulls the line. An upstream mend can slow the fly and hold it longer in a slow lie. In heavy, even current, it can remove the belly that makes the fly race.

A downstream belly pulls the fly headfirst and fast. A correction that removes that belly needs to reach all the way to the fly. Moving only the line beside you may leave the main problem untouched.

Start with one upstream mend. Mend again only when speed or depth needs fixing. Don't over-mend.

A downstream mend speeds the fly and can give a soft hang-down. If the fly is already moving well, don't mend.

A stack mend lifts the head and places loose line above the fly so the tip can sink. A feed mend adds line to reduce pull. A step mend lets line drift freely while you step downstream to gain depth. These are useful tools once you can see the problem they solve.

Any mend that pulls on the fly adds tension, and tension makes it rise. A depth mend should let the tip sink, not drag it toward you.

Rod position also changes the swing. Hold line high to keep faster nearby water from grabbing it. Lower the rod as the fly enters a holding place to slow it. Keep these movements smooth.

Reading the Water

Look for walking-pace current and water about 3–6 ft deep, one guide's rule of thumb. Steelhead use shelter around underwater obstructions, so inspect broken water within the run.

A seam is the boundary between currents moving at different speeds. The inside seam at the head of a run can hold fish. Don't assume every seam offers the same depth or speed.

Other places to inspect include:

• Large rocks: Fish may hold in front of them.
• Bouldery pools: Look at the tail of the pool.
• Narrow trenches: Check just above the tailout.
• The deep gut: Look for slow-walk current through the pool's deeper middle.

The gut can shift within the pool as water changes. It sits lower at high water and higher at low water. Read the whole run before settling into a fixed casting rhythm.

Worked Examples

These are plans, not catch reports. Each one starts with the WDFW check and at the top of the run with short casts.

A Fast, Deep Winter Run on a Skagit Head

Rules change by river and in season. Check the current WDFW sport fishing regulations and emergency rules before every trip.

Start at the top of the run with short casts. Fish close water before extending the line or wading deeper.

For this example, use a 500-grain Skagit head on a compatible 7-weight rod. Medium MOW tips fit the maker's 475–575-grain range. Confirm the rod's grain window rather than treating the line-weight label as enough.

Use about 3–4 ft of 10 lb leader, kept no stronger than the line above it. Make the opening swing and watch whether the current pulls the fly too quickly.

If it races, use a steeper downstream angle or an upstream mend. Aim for a fly swimming about 1–2 ft above bottom. Shorten the drift if it snags, then consider a lighter fly.

Once you reach a controlled casting distance, step about 3–5 ft between swings. A grab may begin as a touch. Wait for the fish's full weight before setting firmly.

A Shallow Boulder Run

Rules change by river and in season. Check the current WDFW sport fishing regulations and emergency rules before every trip.

Start at the top of the run with short casts. Cover the water close to you before moving farther into the river.

Here a long sinking section can hit the rocks before the swing ends. Try 5 ft of T-14. Another option is a correctly matched MOW tip with a shorter sinking section.

A MOW version with 7.5 ft floating and 2.5 ft sinking keeps less sinking line in the water. The 5-ft floating and 5-ft sinking version offers another balance. Choose within the family matched to the head.

Keep the sink-tip leader about 3–4 ft long at 10 lb, no stronger than the line above it. Avoid a very heavy fly in this shallow water.

Extend the casts only while you can control them. If the fly snags, shorten the drift before lightening the fly. Keep it swimming above the rocks rather than using repeated contact to prove depth.

Casting in a Downstream Wind

Rules change by river and in season. Check the current WDFW sport fishing regulations and emergency rules before every trip.

Start at the top of the run with short casts. Fish nearby water first and get a controlled cast before adding line.

With wind blowing downstream, choose a Double Spey or Snake Roll to place the anchor downstream. The anchor and fly should be downwind of you on either bank.

Check the space occupied by the D-loop and fly. Keep other people clear of that space. Don't force a cast whose setup has drifted toward your body.

When learning, remain in mid-calf to knee-deep water. Deeper wading makes the cast harder. If the wind changes, stop and pick the anchor side again before the next cast.

Once the cast is safe and repeatable, lengthen only to the distance you control. The wind choice solves the casting hazard. You still need to watch swing speed and make only useful mends.

A Pluck and Then Nothing

Rules change by river and in season. Check the current WDFW sport fishing regulations and emergency rules before every trip.

Start at the top of the run with short casts. Build the line length while covering close water first.

During a swing, you feel a light pluck. Keep the rod steady. Steelhead may follow and nip before taking, so lifting at the first touch can pull the fly away.

If you hold a loop of running line, make it 20–30 in. Let the fish pull it free. If you use light drag instead, allow line to leave the reel.

Don't turn the first touch into a hook set. Wait for the reel to turn or for the fish's full weight, then set firmly.

Let the swing reach the hang-down. Fish may follow and take there. You can rest the run and return with a different fly rather than making rushed casts at the same place.

When the Water Warms After a Cold Spell

Rules change by river and in season. Check the current WDFW sport fishing regulations and emergency rules before every trip.

Start at the top of the run with short casts. Cover nearby water before adding distance.

A rising temperature after a cold spell can energize fish. That makes a higher presentation worth considering. Try a lighter tip or floating approach while keeping the cast and coverage controlled.

Change depth deliberately. A floating tip can be easier to control and snag less, but the fly rises out of the strike zone sooner. Don't assume the warmer trend makes every deep lie irrelevant.

With a floating tip, use a 12–14-ft leader. Keep the leader test at or below the line above it. If staying with the sink tip, retain the short leader suited to that setup.

Watch the next trend as well. An overnight temperature drop can point back toward a deeper, slower swing. A change in conditions is a reason to adjust, not a promise of a grab.

The Bite, Hook Set, Fight and Landing

A grab can start as a pluck or develop into a steady pull. Steelhead may nip before taking and turning toward their holding place. Give that movement time to happen.

Wait for weight, then set. Some anglers hold a 20–30-in loop beneath a finger and let the fish pull it away. Others use light drag and let the fish take line from the reel. Choose a method you can repeat without clamping down at the first touch.

When the reel turns or you feel the fish's full weight, set firmly. Let the take develop first.

Keep steady pressure during the fight and let the drag release line when needed. Stay aware of your footing. Move along a secure bank only when you can do so safely; don't chase into deep or fast water.

Minimize fight time. Have the landing place and net ready before the fish arrives. Avoid turning the final part of the fight into a scramble for equipment.

Lead the fish toward manageable water and keep it submerged during landing. NOAA recommends a rubber net and keeping the fish partly submerged. Check WDFW's current handling rules for released steelhead before the trip.

Handling and Release

Check WDFW for which fish you may keep and how to handle released steelhead. The advice below comes from NOAA Fisheries and Fly Fishers International. It's handling advice, not a statement of river rules.

• Wet your hands. Keep the fish partly submerged and use a rubber net.
• Prepare before lifting. NOAA advises minimizing air exposure and aiming for under 10 seconds. Having the camera ready helps avoid repeated handling.
• Support the body. For a photo, NOAA advises a horizontal hold with support near the tail and under the front fins. Don't hold the fish by the gills or mouth.
• Use a hook remover. Have it within reach before landing.
• Keep fish off the bank. Fly Fishers International advises against laying fish on rocks or shore.
• Give recovery time. NOAA advises reviving the fish before release.

NOAA advises returning threatened or endangered fish promptly without taking them out of the water. Check WDFW for the rules that apply to your fish and river.

Skip the photo after a long fight, with a deep hook or in warm water. A picture is optional. Reducing handling is the useful decision when the fish is already stressed.

A redd is a fish nest in gravel. NOAA describes clean, lighter gravel as a sign and advises avoiding fishing or wading near redds. Leave spawning fish alone.

Common Mistakes and Fixes

Don't use snags to judge depth. The fly should swim about 1–2 ft above the bottom.

Tips That Make the Difference

• Finish the swing. Let the fly reach the hang-down. Fish may follow and take there, though those takes can be hard to hook.
• Carry useful tip choices. Different floating and sinking lengths let you solve depth problems without rebuilding the whole system.
• Keep the sink-tip leader short. That helps the fly stay near the tip's depth.
• Cover good water with care. Extend line within your control, then step through the run rather than repeating the same cast.
• Watch the temperature trend. Cooling and warming can call for different depths.
• Change the fly after checking presentation. Conditions, suitable runs and fishing well rank ahead of fly choice.
• Rest the run. Then come back with a different fly.
• Take a casting lesson. A casting instructor or a local fly shop can watch your cast and correct it on the water.

Brushing Up: Don't keep fishing a run only because it looks familiar. Runs change. Drop a run that keeps failing.

When It's Slow

Begin with the fly's path. Is it moving at a useful speed? Is the line pulling it upward? Is it dragging? Those questions narrow the next change.

Depth: In cold water, work lower and slower. Gain depth through a suitable tip and line control, while keeping the fly above bottom.

Speed: Remove a downstream belly or cast more steeply downstream. Don't add repeated mends to a swing that already moves well.

Fly: Change weight or profile after checking depth and speed. Avoid tiny, sparse flies in high, dirty water and heavy flies in slow, shallow water.

Water: Inspect the specific holding places rather than making longer casts over the same water. Look at rock fronts, inside seams and trenches above tailouts.

Pause: Rest the run and try a different fly. You can also leave a run that no longer offers a controlled presentation.

Method: If you need a more direct path through a small holding place, read Float Fishing or Drift Fishing. For other approaches, compare Side Drifting and Spoons and Spinners. Check WDFW before changing tackle or fishing position.

Safety

• Wading support: A snug, non-stretch webbing belt helps keep water out of waders. A staff adds support and studs help on slick rock.
• Learning depth: Stay in mid-calf to knee-deep water while learning Spey casts. Deeper water makes casting harder.
• Rising water: Watch your route back and leave before it becomes uncertain. Don't wade after snagged tackle.
• Downstream hazards: Know what lies below you. High flows, sweepers and strainers deserve attention before entering the water.
• Wind and hooks: Put the anchor and fly downwind of your body. Stop if a changed wind makes the setup unsafe.
• Eye protection: Wear glasses and a hat. Keep people clear of the fly and casting loop.
• Cold water: Prepare for cold shock and loss of swimming ability, as well as hypothermia. Carry dry clothes and a clear exit plan.
• Footing: Choose stable positions. Casting farther isn't a reason to wade deeper.

A sweeper is a tree or branch hanging into the water. A strainer is wood that lets water through but traps boats and people. Spot both before you pick a wading route.

If a boat takes you to the run, wear a life jacket on board and agree on where you'll get out. The run still needs a safe place to land and wade.

A Guided Day and What to Ask

A booked swing trip may involve walking between runs or using a boat to reach them. Confirm the format before you book. Don't assume a boat trip means fishing from the boat.

Your guide may help match the line system, choose runs and coach casting. Ask how much instruction is built into the day. Tell them whether you are learning Spey casting or already have a repeatable cast.

Expect repeated casting, careful stepping and time spent reading water. Ask about walking distance and footing so you can judge whether the trip suits you.

Questions worth asking:

• Is the trip walk-and-wade or boat transport between runs?
• What casting experience should I have?
• How much casting instruction is included?
• Do you supply rods, reels, lines and flies?
• What wading gear and clothing should I bring?
• What happens if river conditions become unsuitable?
• How do you plan around current WDFW rules?
• What is the landing and release plan?
• How many anglers will share the day?

Ask your guide for their WDFW guide license number before you book.

Learn More

• WDFW Puget Sound Steelhead — the Skagit and other Puget Sound steelhead rivers.
• WDFW Coastal Steelhead — the Olympic Peninsula and coastal rivers.
• WDFW Sport Fishing Regulations and Emergency Rules — check before every trip.
• USGS Water Data for Washington — river observations and gauge trends.
• NOAA Northwest River Forecast Center — river forecasts.
• NOAA Fisheries: Scaling Back Your Impact — catch-and-release tips (PDF).
• Fly Fishers International Single Hand Spey Guide — casts by wind and anchor side (PDF).

Glossary

Anchor

Part of the line touching the water before the forward cast.

Backing

Reserve line stored beneath the casting system on the reel.

Belly

Curve in the line caused by current.

D-Loop

Curved line formed behind the rod before the forward cast.

Double Spey

Spey cast that places the anchor downstream.

Drag

The reel mechanism that releases line under pressure.

Fluorocarbon

Leader material that is harder for fish to see.

Grain

Small unit used to measure casting-line weight.

Grain Window

Rod maker's published range of suitable head weights.

Hang-Down

End of the swing, with the fly directly downstream.

Hydrograph

A chart of river measurements over time.

Leader

Line between the sink tip or head and the fly.

Mend

Deliberate repositioning of line on the water to change the presentation.

Mono

Monofilament, a single strand of fishing line.

MOW Tip

Ready-made tip with a selected mix of floating and sinking line.

Redd

Fish nest in gravel.

Riffle

Shallow, moving water with a broken surface.

Run

A stretch of fairly steady current.

Running Line

Thin line behind the head that shoots through the rod guides.

Scandi Head

Longer, lighter casting head suited to lighter flies and shallower water.

Seam

The boundary between currents moving at different speeds.

Selective Gear

WDFW term for gear limits on some waters; read its definition in the rules.

Single Spey

Spey cast using a lift and sweep to place the anchor upstream.

Sink Tip

Sinking line section attached ahead of the head.

Skagit Head

Short, heavy casting head designed to carry sink tips and heavier flies.

Snake Roll

Spey cast using a rolling line movement to place the anchor downstream.

Snap T

Spey cast using a snapping placement to set the anchor upstream.

Spey Rod

Long, two-handed rod used for water-anchored casts.

Stack Mend

Lift and placement of loose head above the fly to help the tip sink.

Strainer

Wood that lets water through but traps boats and people.

Sustained Anchor

Casting setup that keeps line on the water while the rod loads.

Sweeper

Tree or branch hanging into the water.

Swing

Fly's path as current carries it across the river.

Switch Rod

Shorter rod designed for both single-handed and two-handed use.

T-11

Tungsten sink-tip material weighing 11 grains per foot.

Tailout

The shallowing end of a pool above the next riffle.

Guides Who Specialize in This

More River Methods

Compare Drift Fishing, Float Fishing, Side Drifting, Pulling Plugs, Plunking and Spoons and Spinners. Each changes how you reach and cover the water. Choose a presentation you can control, then check WDFW for the exact stretch.

At a Glance

On This Page

• What It Is and When It Beats Other Methods
• Target Species and Where in Washington
• River by River
• Seasons and Conditions
• Rods, Reels, Line and Leader
• Terminal Tackle and Rigging, Step by Step
• By Species
• Technique, Step by Step
• Worked Examples
• The Bite, Hook Set, Fight and Landing
• Handling and Release
• Common Mistakes and Fixes
• Tips That Make the Difference
• When It's Slow
• Safety
• WDFW Rules to Check
• A Guided Day and What to Ask
• Learn More
• Glossary
• Guides Who Specialize in This
• More River Methods